Handyman Hints: It's hip to be square with your wainscoting
![CO.wainscoting](https://smartcdn.gprod.postmedia.digital/nexus/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/co.1019933762.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=288&h=216&sig=k3a_XqlNLp1ayLnVJWYKOQ)
Article content
Because travelling to an exotic destination, and staying in some glamourous hotel, isn’t something we’re likely to be doing anytime soon, consider replacing that fleeting moment of flair by permanently adding a bit of pizazz to your own homestead.
How? With a touch of wainscoting.
Last week, our wainscoting suggestions included beaded panelling, or essentially, vertical line décor. Vertical lines are great, but the style is definitely a little country.
So, if the vehicle in your driveway isn’t made by John Deere, or if having to kick mud off your boots before entering the home is a rarity because for one, you live nowhere near mud, and two, you haven’t worn rubber boots since pre-kindergarten, then beaded vertical lines may not be your home’s style salvation.
Therefore, and instead of the country charm of vertical lines, I’m going to suggest boosting the home’s décor with rectangles. Construct your rectangles using either decorative moldings, or MDF (medium-density fiberboard) planking.
Unless the drywall is in rough condition, both the decorative molding rectangles and MDF planking options will attach directly to the existing surface. Tools for the job are pretty basic, requiring a chop saw with a new, 80-tooth blade, finishing air nailer, caulking gun, and a tape measure.
Because hammering a nail into MDF product is like trying to pound a nail into a bowling ball, be sure to rent, borrow, or buy an air nailer and the required compressor.
Don’t attempt to pre-drill and tap a finishing nail into MDF moldings. This procedure works for real wood, because of its natural elasticity, but will create a less than satisfying finish with MDF.
Because the wainscoting will be adding both style and formality to your hallway or chosen room, now would be a good time to examine the state of your casings and baseboards. If these moldings date back to when the Flintstones were a noon-hour must see on the ol’ Quazar console, then it might be time for an upgrade.
Although finishing moldings come in a variety of shapes and sizes, what’s trending now are door casings that are about 3.5 inches in width, and baseboard moldings that are about 5.5 inches in height.
The decorative molding used to make the rectangles that will provide the centerpieces of your wainscoting panels usually consists of ‘panel’ trims, or smaller ‘chair rail’ moldings that range anywhere from 1.5 to 1.75 inches in diameter. Decorative moldings tend to have a few bumps and curves, so be sure to choose a casing and baseboard trim with similar features.
As always, beef up your casing trim with a back-band molding. The back-band will not only add to the casing’s character and presence, but the thicker perimeter will better accept the future chair rail molding.
How to do the math? Although there are no set rules as to what size or proportion of rectangle looks best, look to make your rectangles about 14 to 16 inches wide, and 20 to 24 inches high. The rectangles should be placed about four inches above the baseboard, be spaced about four inches apart, with the finishing chair rail molding sitting about four inches above the rectangles.
Based on a 14- to 16-inch rectangle width, with an average four-inch spacing in between, do the math regarding how many rectangles will fit into the wall width.
Best bet— make a cardboard cutout of the proposed rectangular shape, then pencil outline three to four shapes along the wall, just to get a visual as to what this pattern is going to look like.
MDF planking forms what’s essentially a ‘Shaker’ style of pattern, defined as clean lines that add depth and interest. Basically, you’ll need 1×6, 1×4, and 1×3, MDF sized planks, along with one top chair rail, and the always necessary back-band molding to beef up the casing.
Install the casing (1×4) and back-band molding first. Next, install the baseboard (1×6). Then, space the 1×3 planks vertically (about 14-16 inches apart). Finally, rest your 1×4 plank horizontally on the 1×3 vertical planks, add the chair rail molding, and you’re done.
Good wainscoting.
Postmedia is committed to maintaining a lively but civil forum for discussion. Please keep comments relevant and respectful. Comments may take up to an hour to appear on the site. You will receive an email if there is a reply to your comment, an update to a thread you follow or if a user you follow comments. Visit our Community Guidelines for more information.